Frequently asked

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Ant Jungle FAQ's

Science Branches:

Ages: 6+

SOLUTION 1: Cut thin strips of tissue paper and stick them over the holes with just water. They will dry out and air can get in and out – but not the ants. In fact – when they’ve settled in, the strips can come off and the ants won’t bother to come out. In fact – we don’t really need breathing holes as the thin parts of dry plaster ‘breathe’ air. Also, try putting sticky tape over the holes. Tiny ants don’t really need the breathing holes.

SOLUTION 2: Our suggestion is to get bigger ants, longer than 3mm and more than 1mm wide.

A3. SOLUTION 1: TOO WET – It is very possible that the air inside was just too wet and humid for them. They can ‘drown’ if the humidity condensed on their bodies. The plaster is solid but still very wet, maybe it needs to be a lot drier. It has loads of water ‘trapped’ in the plaster. VERY carefully pull apart the rivets, release any ants (or save them in the jar), then put the plaster cast outside in fresh air and sunlight if possible where it can dry completely. Even raise it up on a baking rack so it dries both sides and leaves it for 2 or 3 days, reassembling the mine carefully.
SOLUTION 2: SUICIDAL ANTS – This seems silly, but all our ants always like to have a job to do. They seem to live to work looking after larvae and pupae. Picked up at random and put into an empty, clean foreign space occasionally seems to shock them, even to ‘death’. Here is our trick – we find the original ants nest and see if we can also find some ants eggs, larvae, and pupae (they look like sausages or maggots), plus we get a few spoonfuls of ants nest dirt. Put them in the colony first, shaking a little of the ant dirt from the nest down through the tunnels. Then add the ants. The babies give the ants an instant focus with the familiar smell of the ant dirt must make it feel like home.

SOLUTION 3: OUT OF THE SUN – Please keep the colony away from direct sunlight. It will cook them! In fact, hanging a bit of cloth or paper over the front gives them a bit of privacy which they seem to like.

SOLUTION 4: ANTS TOO SMALL AND FEEBLE – There are no two ways about it, big ants are much tougher. Small is okay as long as they are over 3mm long so they don’t get out the air holes.

SOLUTION 5: TOO DRY – If the ants all collect around the water tube, squirt 4 or 5 pipettes full of tap water on the plaster back.

Check for some techniques in the many Ant Kit Instruction booklets.

Or you can try putting sugar water on a cotton ball inside the ant catcher jar. Then put the jar outside near a trail from an ants nest.
If you bury the jar to the rim in soil, it is even easier for ants to get in. Leave it for a day, then just pop the lid on to trap the ants.

OR you can leave the ball on an ant trail and wait. Use tweezers to pick up the ball covered in ants and drop it into your ant catcher jar.

Tiny ants are a ‘security problem’. If they are less than 1mm across the head, they will get out of our breathing holes. So if you can, get some larger ants.
However, if you can only get tiny ones, you can tape over the holes and round the sides too. The plaster actually ‘breathes’ air ( you can blow right through it if you try!) so for small ants, taping up is OK.

1. Roll very very thin sausages or strings of plasticine and make a gasket around the edge of the plaster. It will flatten as the rivets are tightened, but can still be removed.
2. Squeeze a thin ‘beading’ of silicone sealer around the outside edge. It will flatten and set as the rivets are tightened, but cannot be removed easily.

If your ants are less than 3mm long, they are probably less than 1mm wide. And our air holes are 1mm wide. So they may escape from there.

So what to do?
1. Cut thin strips of tissue paper, wet them, and let them dry over the two lines of holes. Air will still get in and out but not ants. After they have settled in 3 days or so, they generally do not want to escape and the paper can come off. ( Some might pop their heads out for a look around but then go in again. If you are faint-hearted, best keep the paper on.)
2. Better, put sticky tape over the holes! For small ants, enough oxygen diffuses into the colony through the very thin plaster walls. In fact, you can blow air through the back into the colony .. try it!
3. Better still – collect ant larvae and pupae at the same time. Ants love to look after them and usually, they don’t even think about escaping.
4. Best of all – try and find bigger ants. It seems NZ has 11 species of native ants and 28 introduced ones. As it gets warmer towards Christmas you’ll have more ant size choices.
What if the lid does not seal against the plaster?

The mould and the special lid are engineered to very small tolerances. Ants should not leak out the sides. Maybe the mould was not on a completely flat surface as the plaster was poured?

Some worker ants under certain conditions which are hard to predict will lay eggs when away from the effects of a queen. But these eggs are most often sterile. They are often fed to growing larvae as ‘trophic eggs’, or food eggs. Some enthusiasts claim these eggs have hatched into larvae and grown into new drones and queens etc. We are yet to prove it. Maybe you can?

BUT we know a sure way to keep the colony growing. Scoop up larvae and pupae ( they look like maggots or tiny sausages) with the dirt and the ants you put into your colony. These usually turn into workers BUT we have had queens and drones hatch successfully and keep the colony going for 18 months so far! An ant lives about 3 months max.

You have tiny ants and big ants? They are all actually ‘adult’ ants but of different castes or jobs. Young ants are the larvae or pupae. Once hatched – that’s it! You don’t really get to grow anymore. Except if you are a queen when you get long and fat!

Well, in our experience tiny ants are a bit fragile even with the gentlest handling. Big ants seem so much more durable. Don’t chill tiny ants too long, if that is how you caught them. Also you can speed them out of the catcher by putting the catcher part in bright light … but not HOT light. Direct sunlight and heat seem to ‘cook’ them. If you chill them to sleep, try just pouring them in through a plug hole. But you’ll need to be quick!

To get a colony to last forever you do not need to catch a queen, but you do need to hatch one! Ordinary ants you see around under stones etc are workers. They live about 90 days. They are all sterile females unable to breed. So when you catch a bunch of them, you will expect a few to die off every day depending on how old they were when you caught them. After about 3 months, in most species, yes … they will all be dead.
When you buy ants over the internet, they will be workers, and will not live more than about 3 months, depending on species.
But we have a trick! In our instructions, we suggest you collect your own ants from under rocks and logs. You will also see little white or yellow grubs or maggots being carried around by the workers. These are baby ants ( ant larvae). We suggest you scoop up some of those too with a big spoon, along with some ants nest soil ‘to make them feel at home’. If the workers are also carrying little brown sausages too, that is excellent. Scoop up some too. They are ant pupae which will soon hatch into new ants.
Plus looking after baby ants is what worker ants are programmed to do! They love it – and you’ll see them working away in your colony just as they would outside.
DO NOT TRY AND CATCH A QUEEN! This destroys the nest and you do not need a queen. Why? When the larvae are away from the ‘chemical influence’ of the original queen, they can develop into new males and new queens! So you can hatch your own queens!
Now – it may not be the right season for you to get baby ants. But now you can plan ahead! Try with just workers first – then restock when the season comes along.

This can happen if certain worker ants from certain species are separated from their larvae and pupae.
1. Find a variety of foods, both vegetarian and meat based, chopped very finely. Just a small spoonful of each. Crushed cat or dog biscuits or a mixture of both and most ants like them. You will also need some old lids from jars.
2. Find some ants in a park or a garden. Get really really close and observe very carefully.
3. Leave the foods in little piles in jar lids near the ants. See which foods they will go to and take away. Also see what they are eating ‘in the wild’.
4. Try and track down where the ants are coming from. When you find the nest, carefully collect about 20 worker ants AND some of the dirt from the nest.
5. Also try to collect a few ‘ants eggs’. They are not actually eggs, but larvae and pupae that the ants carry around in their jaws.
6. Put the ants larvae pupae and dirt into your colony. The chemicals (pheromones) in the dirt and produced by the ‘babies’ help normalize ant behavior and should help feeding.
7. Now you also know which foods they prefer.
8. Make sure your colony is not in bright sunshine, or they cook. Make sure it does not get too dry in hot weather. If they ALL gather around the water well, squirt 3 or 4 pipette fulls of water on the back of the plaster.

1. If it is winter and very cold the ants will be inactive.
2. If the colony is in very bright light, the ants will find the shadiest area they can, and stay there. Hang a piece of dark paper over the front and see if they start to move, or put the colony out of bright light.
3. If they are all gathered around the water tube, and not moving, the colony is too dry. Using your pipette, squirt water onto the back of the plaster moulding. Do this 5 or 6 times if you have had very dry weather. In very hot dry conditions, you’ll need to squirt water daily on the back of the colony.
4. Sometimes, very rarely, worker ants just refuse to perform in an empty nest. They don’t like a completely empty nest as there is nothing for them to work at. Collecting ant larvae and pupae ( little maggotty things the ants carry around in their jaws) at the same time as the ants give them something to do and they will become very active. If you bought or collected the ants with no dirt or nest materials, try adding chopped grass and sand in through the food port. They don’t like a messy nest, and they will soon move the offending stuff to different rooms or chambers, often changing rooms every day.
5. You can wake them up! Carefully pull off one end of the ant tubing and blow through it gently!. Ants are ‘stimulated’ by the carbon dioxide in your breath. But don’t do this too often, and NEVER inhale an ant. Plus the ants don’t like it. Their activity is actually trying to get away from carbon dioxide.
6. If none of this works, change your ants. Very gently separate the rivets of the kit, take off the cover and release your sleepy ants in a garden. Collect some more lively ones next time.

OK, speed of hardening depends on many things. Most likely you just stirred a bit too long.
Runny is better than thick – as it will have started to set. So best stir only until all the lumps have gone – then pour.

Plaster moulded tunnels is one system used widely in university research labs, and our tunnels are carefully researched to duplicate the chamber arrangements of leaf cutter ants. Nearly all other types of ants will adopt the chambers and use them and decorate etc for distinct and varied purposes and behaviours which is the fun part of watching ants. These processes are hard to see in a dirt filled kit. Tunnel digging is the least important part of an ants day. Gel kits are easy to observe but rapidly kill ants . Don’t buy them, check feedback online yourself.
The amount of plaster is just right if mixed with the correct amount of water. We need thin walls and back as carbon dioxide and oxygen diffuse out and in through them. Plaster is ideal. But yes, they need careful handling. Condensation also does not build up in a plaster environment, and over humidity encourages fungal infections.

You can repair a cracked moulding but the results are not 100%. You can use any modelling plaster to make another. Yes leave it overnight at best, 16 hours is heaps of time. And pry it loose carefully.

Ants do hibernate. They slow down and ‘go to sleep’ at about 5°C. So if you have your colony outside in a cold place – you might see no action. They might be sulking in your large container. They do tend to stay where it smells like home.

First. When you collect ants it is very important to only collect ants from one nest. Ants from two nests, even if they are the exact same species, living close to each other tend to act like warring or competing tribes. They are very jealous of their territory! So collect ants from one nest only, just as in the booklet.

Another possibility – most worker ants only live for about 90 days. They also tend to hatch in batches so they tend to die in batches too. Maybe you collected a bunch of old-timers that proceeded to expire in front of you?? In our colonies, the living workers will gently pick up the dead bodies and take them to one dry area of the kit and leave them there. Maybe it looks like a war zone, but it could be a natural cycle you are seeing.

Another possibility: some ants do seem to get very stressed by moving home so unceremoniously. In the booklet, we suggest collecting ants larvae and pupae too, along with nest soil. Please do not look for the queen. The ants (who will nearly all be workers) are programmed to look after the young ones – so they seem to be very much calmer and happier when fully employed! PLUS – the young ones will hatch and you get another load of ants for free – often including a new queen and males!

We explain that when children learn to care for and truly understand small living things like ants and worms, they will also learn to care for and truly understand other human beings. We think you will be very happy when you understand what the product is about.

In nature, worker ants live a maximum of 90 days. In other brands Ant Toys, they will live max 90 days. In our capsules, we have colonies 232 days old ( and still very happy) without taking the ‘queen’. We tell children never to collect a queen, only soil and some worker ants plus a few larvae and eggs. This way the world gets 2 colonies from 1 colony. Years of research with children means that we know children can look after ants very well.

The kit is designed by a zoologist, entomologist, and teacher who cares about ants and children.

We suggest in spring or summer, collecting your own local worker ants plus ant larvae and pupae ( often called ants ‘eggs’), and ant dirt, from a nest in the park or garden. You don’t need a queen. Away from the influence of the queen, some pupae and larvae will naturally turn into new queens and males in your colony, ensuring at least one queen is fertilized. Very Exciting! Then, the colony can go on ‘forever’. Get larger ants. Over 3mm long means, their heads are usually too wide to get through the holes which are 1mm diameter. This is the best idea.

If you don’t have a chance to find them in the wild….

As we don’t know where do you live, here are some information for specific regions below, hope they do help!

Ants should be out and about in parks and gardens in the UK during the spring.Just follow the clues in the booklet for catching ants. (But you should be aware that catching certain rare ants is illegal in the UK.)

OR you can get nice big ants by mail from our distributor in UK

If you are in USA, or Canada please visit here:
The ants they supply are usually nice and big.

There are more on the web.
You’ll need to order them from a supplier inside your own country because quarantine laws usually stop ants being shipped from one country to the next.
If it is very cold at the moment where you live, maybe wait until the weather warms up to catch your own live ants. Or order them over the internet.
Most suppliers sell Harvester ants, and these ants are ideal – they are herbivores. So mustard seeds, grass seeds, dried fruit, sugar, etc are great foods for them.
Worker ants alone might live up to 3 months. But with a fertilized queen, your colony can go can ‘forever’. We are not sure if the queens some suppliers sell are fertilized, and able to lay eggs that will hatch. You may need to ask them.

A20. Here is a strategy. It takes patience, but that is what real science is about:
1. Find a variety of foods, both vegetarian and meat-based chopped very finely. Just a small spoonful of each. Crushed cat or dog biscuits are a mixture of both and most ants like them. And some old lids from jars.
2. Find some ants in a park or a garden. Get really really close… and observe very carefully…… 3. Leave the foods in little piles in jar lids near the ants. See which foods they will go to and take away. Also, see what they are eating ‘in the wild’.
4. Try and track down where the ants are coming from. When you find the nest, carefully collect about 20 worker ants AND some of the dirt from the nest.
5. Also, try to collect a few ‘ants eggs’. They are not actually eggs, but larvae and pupae that the ants carry around in their jaws.
6. Put the ant’s larvae pupae and dirt into your colony. The chemicals (pheromones) in the dirt and produced by the ‘babies’ help normalize ant behavior and should help to feed.
7. Now you also know which foods they prefer.
8. This time you should have a thriving and exciting colony of happy ants.

Dr. WILD!:
About the colour of baby ants. Yes, sometimes they do start out a pale gingery colour. Something very special happens in the skin ( or exoskeleton) of an ant , especially when it is exposed to light. ( Did you know ants and woodlice wear their bones on the outside?) Light speeds up a kind of tanning and ‘plastic hardening’ process. It is a bit like when you get a new filling at the dentist, it gets hardened with a special ultra violet light, just like strong sunlight. But in the ant, the plasticky exoskeleton goes harder and a darker colour over time anyway, but light speeds up the process. Just like us getting a tan in the sun.

I thought a woodlice home would be interesting because once I was digging up some stones and I saw 20 woodlice with some babies and it moved really fast! It was really interesting and I liked watching it very much. All of the woodlice were a silver greyish colour and were living in the soil so I think ants and woodlice could share the same home. I put woodlice in my ant home yesterday and its perfectly fine today. I was thinking something like the eco dome but for woodlice.

A: Dr. WILD!: We have not thought about suggesting putting woodlice into ant colonies. Thank you so much for the idea. You are right, woodlice and ants do share the same home in nature, so they should live happily in our ant kits. Your observation that your ‘test woodlouse’ is OK, seems to confirm your idea (or hypothesis).
Marco, we are sorry to say that for various reasons we will not make special woodlice home. BUT we would like to tell the world about Marco’s idea ( to put woodlice in with your ants or ECO Dome)

This can happen after a long time, especially at low temperatures.

You were correct in trying warm water. If possible soak the join in warm water/ even hand-hot water. But not boiling.

Failing that, use a sharp craft knife to make a small cut into the rim of the tube to release some of the tension in the tube. Not all way to reveal the end of the side plug, just about halfway. This and heat will release most reluctant tubes.

When replacing the tube, try lubricating the side plug with a little washing-up liquid.

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Crystal Geode Science Lab FAQ's

Science Branches:

Ages: 8+

Could be your water quality, or adding a bit too much water to the mix, or making it on a very humid day and/or leaving the plaster powder open to the air for too long.

Leave it for an hour or two. If it is still soft, dig out the mix, and just add a bit more dry plaster powder* and stir until it is really really thick. Then smooth it back into the mould with a spoon or knife. If it sets OK, when you make the geode, reduce liquid amounts to make a very stiff mixture to put in the mould.

* BTW we use regular good quality ‘craft shop’ plaster-of-paris powder.

Sorry to hear you have ‘crystallised your carpet’.

The base chemical is ammonium monophosphate which is itself colourless and harmless. ( It is also an agricultural fertilizer.)

1 If it is this alone that you have spilled, just use a sponge in cold or room temp water to repeatedly and alternately to soak, dissolve and then re-absorb the chemical in the wrung out sponge. Try not to let the patch spread out too far.

2 If the weather is very dry, you could also wait until it has dried out totally and you have white powdery crystals showing up, then vacuum thoroughly. If you have a beater-head on the cleaner, all the better. Then, just to finish off, try the sponge treatment too.

3 If you have spilled the chemical with the (food) colourant in it, best start with strategy 2. After vacuuming then use a carpet stain remover liquid and sponge on and off. That should do it. If some stain still remains, use ‘Napisan’ or another non-chlorine based clothes stain remover.

4 If some stain still remains – sorry, you just have to wait. The colourant is food grade and biodegradable and will loose colour with time and wear.

In nearly all cases the cascading of small crystals is due to tiny impurities: extra ‘nucleation’ points in the water or the dish or the air or the cup or spoon etc. This will starve the ball or geode of material – so yes they will take much longer to form up on the ball, if at all. Sorry, we cannot control water quality or air quality.

A Fix: ‘Mum’ tips the solution with all the tiny crystals into a clean pan and reheats and stirs them with a clean spoon until all are dissolved. Do not boil. And please do not boil in the Microwave. WARNING: a solution like this if boiled can get hotter than boiling water – so an ADULT MUST DO IT! (If the bath was covered continuously before, the solution might now have too much water in relation to crystals if some crystals did form on the ball or geode. So keep the solution hot e.g: for about 10 minutes to steam off some of the water to re-saturate or strengthen the solution.) Cool it to just ‘hot to touch’ temperature = about 50° C. Then tip it into the very clean bath and put the Ball or geode in … and cover. You may need to lower the Ball to be just under the liquid. This will not get rid of dust there from the start but the Ball ( geode) will have crystals already formed which are the preferred nucleation sites 2nd time round.

Crystallization rate depends largely on temperature and humidity in the home, no matter what we specify in the booklets. Temperature and humidity play a great part in the speed of crystal formation. Crystals form – but slowly and usually they are bigger. But it may take a week or more. We suggest re saturating your liquids with more chemical in very hot solution. Hotter than hand warm – which is the safe temperature for children. So try putting the bottle in a bath of newly boiled water, until more dissolves. Carefully decant the very hot saturated liquid into the well. Let the saturated liquid to cool in a dust-free place. You will get crystals growing as it cools unless the laws of solubility and temperature are broken. Then as the liquid evaporates the crystals will enlarge. Dusty air or impure water can also lead to extraneous nucleation points leading to cascades of smaller crystals. So clean water and clean air for best results.

If you dissolve lots of small crystals in water until no more will dissolve, you have made a SATURATED solution. The hotter the water, the more chemical crystals you can dissolve before it gets saturated. The solution is usually a lot denser ( or heavier) than plain water, so our Magic Rocks ( in some kits only) will float when the solution is saturated. It is one scientific way of knowing if a liquid is plain water or has dissolved chemical in it. Then as the solution cools or dries out, the water just can’t hold that much chemical in solution. So crystals start to form. And they are usually a LOT bigger than the ones you put in.

Squish a spoonful of regular white crystals from the jar into the wet plaster. If possible, try and find the biggest crystals you can to do this. The bigger the seed crystals, the better they work, and the crystals from the Citrine Heart are ideal. But you should still get a nice looking Emerald Geode even using small crystals.

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We believe true equality means
celebrating our differences

Many thoughtful parents and children are concerned about our decision to market separate Boy and Girl Science kits. Here are some frequently asked questions and our answers to them.

We have about 21 products nominally designed for a girl audience, 6 for a boy audience and 17 more or less genderless. So that tells you we actually have a huge, smart and feisty ball-busting bunch of WILD girl scientists out there. The biggest girl following in all science kit providers we believe.

Look a little deeper and you’ll see that girls can make Bouncing Slime, Rat’s Gizzards and Flowery Fart Putty (which is in the Perfume Kit!!) as preludes to their own fugues of inventiveness and creativity. We ask all the kids: girls and boys to take risks, be brave, believe their own experiences, question everything, create and share knowledge, test and test again. And the boys can make gorgeous Rainbow Icicle Trees, perfumed goo and more.

But underlying the seeming frivolity is deep, deep science. In fact almost all the products are based on similar concepts, but we theme the names, stories and initial explorations differently, as sisters and brothers often want different kits. We’ll come to that later.

‘Findability’. Starting in 1997, and for three years onwards, all our kits were gender neutral. We used green background boxes. The public that found the kits, loved them once they had used them.
But most buyers complained.

a) they did not know if the kits were ‘for them’, meaning ‘for boys or for girls’.
b) why did we ‘hide’ the kits away!! Major retailers ‘hid’ the kits because they had no easy-to-find category or home for the kits. NOTE: About 60% of our kits were bought then by or for girls before 2000. Now it is even higher.

Thus we had parents and kids asking why we did not make it clear whom the kits were for. And secondly, we had retailers not having a ‘home’ for the kits, pressing us to FLAG the kits for boys or for girls, so they can find a home.

We are already there in specialty stores, but in larger practice that does not solve the issues above. Plus, our mission is to bring science to the kids and adults that would NOT visit the science section in specialty stores.

All our biological kits tend to be Green – gender neutral, and thus tend to be confined to small specialist shops. Our mission is 85% bigger than the science section, it is to reach the unconverted kids who already ‘hate’ or are not interested in science. Marketing to the converted does nothing to convert! Thus we need to talk to boys and girls.

WHY Pink and Purple in Big stores? WILD Girls have no trouble finding the kits there. They also know that the science inside is ‘edgy and grungy’. The pink and purple is like the icon of a woman in a skirt signifying ‘ladies toilet’. Rarely do jeans wearing extreme skydiving women complain about skirt-stereotyping in a mall toilet sign. Or a green light signifying go on a highway. But colour iconography and psychology is another science worthy of discussion.

Some hard line scientists ask why we do not use names such as ‘Electrical science’, or ‘Acid Base Science’ as more realistic and direct science names? This falls into our ‘schoolishness’ and science-centricity issue.

We found that such an approach narrowed the appeal to just the geeky and already converted ( BTW we are geeky and already converted). Plus it made the kits sound like school. Plus it misses out on our drive to introduce real invention and creativity into the science process for kids ( so sadly lacking in many school science classes).

The majority of our buyers are regular mums uncles and aunties. Why not dads? This is a good question and it is a complex answer still being researched. About 85% of the adult public admit to negative feelings towards their science education (USA UK and Australian research). Particularly women who report they themselves had negative experiences in science classes but nevertheless realize scientific literacy is important for their own kids, and thus have very mixed feelings when buying a kit. We must use our messaging to help them get past those feelings, plus deliver the exciting ‘non schooly’ experience promised inside.

By flagging kits along gender lines, we can double our product variety! Yes, most of the Workshops, Labs and Factory kits have girl versions and boy versions. This is a practical, commercial win, plus a win for brothers and sisters as we can double the range of activities using the same ‘ingredients’ and same scientific concepts. But we change the names and themes, and we do not duplicate the challenges – we create new ones.

Girls still have more kits in the range than boys, yes they do the same HARD SCIENCE too, but it is getting more even. Boys do say about a girl kit ‘yuck its for girls’. Girls tend not to say the opposite, so the WILD! world is bigger for girls so far. Currently boys are missing out mostly on Cosmetic Sciences. These feature organic chemistry, skin health and biology – ABSOLUTELY NOT make up or fashion. When enough boys get their act together and admit they are interested, we are ready. Yes we do have a Physics and Chemistry kit – nominally in the boy’s category. Girls do nearly all of it – and it will change anyway

 In all our feedback over 15 years or so we have found WILD! Science boys and WILD! Science girls to be questioning, thoughtful, inquisitive, determined, limitless, courageous, and funny individuals. Not pink or blue! Very far from the impressionable young minds we fear will be subverted by the implied hidden curriculum. The ‘colours’ and our adult-fears of stereotyping just did not stick, if they had any real meaning in the first place. A great deal of educational research has shown similar outcomes in intentional gender-neutral educational environments compared to laissez faire or stereotyped environments. Ultimately, kids are much smarter and much less impressionable than we think. Even tho’ at a young age they seem to have distinct preferences which we seem to reinforce. Evolutionary psychologists have a lot to say about this.

Sadly the issue is being where kids can find us. We can follow a paradigm of proactive neutrality and thus become invisible and unsustainable. Great in schools with captive audiences, but not in mass market – yet.

We try to stay constantly abreast of scientific and educational research into gender and stereotyping issues. Our writers and advisors are all parents, including university method lecturers, zoologists, educational psychologists and front line researchers in both school and institutional learning and unstructured/natural learning. Our educational paradigm is ahead of the curve – contributing to research in authentic pedagogy, leading in constructivism etc.

Sadly the issue is being where kids can find us. We can follow a paradigm of proactive neutrality and thus become invisible and unsustainable. Great in schools with captive audiences, but not in mass market – yet.

If you haven’t actually checked what is inside one of our products, please take a leap and do so! Check the messages on the back of the box, and read one of the Inspiration booklets ( especially maybe the Cosmetic Science kits) and DO the activities. We think you’ll be surprised.

We suspect this may not completely satisfy your concerns. But it may at least explain why we do what we do. And yes, we never ignore critical inputs, to the contrary we value them immensely.

Let’s Have a Moment of Science.

In high school you can go to separate Physics, Chemistry, Biology and even Geology classes. So you might end up thinking that each of these sciences has nothing to do with each other.

In reality, all industrial Chemical Processes take place under controlled physical conditions in technological equipment that is carefully engineered and mathematically monitored so that the outcome is safe and useful for biological human beings at some point!

In reality, most pieces of Physics Equipment have the chemical content of critical parts carefully formulated. And every aspect of its ‘usability’ closely designed for soft, 5 fingered, poor sighted, half deaf, fairly feeble ‘apes’ like us.

We could go on and on! And usually we do! But you are lucky today.

Each of our kits might have one main science as a focus, they also involve some measuring math and other sciences.

Briefly, every WILD Science kit tries to support STEM , a worldwide educational movement which integrates the sciences, technology, engineering and math. Plus we support what is called PRODUCTIVE PEDAGOGY with the aim that kids always use their skills to make something unique, and useful as a proof-of-learning outcome. Not just writing! BUT we go further. We try to add mystery, laughs, yucky bits, smells, beauty and drama to everything. We have fun. So should you.”

Be wise. Protect your eyes!

Using safety goggles while your child doing science is necessary for safe, active learning but it’s also a great helper in immersing them into the role. 

Choosing the right goggles and using them appropriately is critical to ensure your Wild Science experience is a good one so we’ve picked the right ones for you and included them in the kits!

Download goggle info sheet

We're here to answer any questions you might have...